Posted by Damon Gambuto, December 3, 2008 at 3:00 PM
The 101 Coffee Shop
6145 Franklin Avenue, Los Angeles California 90028 (map); the101coffeeshop.com Cooking Method: Grillled Short Order: A retro Hollywood diner burger that looks better than it tastes Want Fries with That? They are creative in that they're mixed with sweet potato fries, but I'd go with the mashed potatoes with gravy instead Notes: Daily, 7 a.m. - 3 a.m. Take a stroll into the hotel lobby to catch some Hollywood memorabilia
If you are thinking of heading to Hollywood to follow yours dreams of silver screen stardom then you can be pretty well assured that you will find yourself sliding into the leather booths at The 101 Coffee Shop at some point during your journey to fame or misfortune. Perched on the Northern edge of Hollywood, this retro diner resides on the first floor of a Best Western. The chain that runs the mid-range hotel belies its history. Hollywood luminaries have been making their way to this spot since it opened as The Franklin Hotel in the 1930s. These days the clientele is more Hollywood-hipster than Hollywood royalty, but then again, history is just the story told when the game is over. Winners and losers can be hard to spot in medias res. Today’s tattooed waitress could be tomorrow’s Olivia de Havilland (or Angelina Jolie, for those of you who demand contemporary references). Part of the magic of celebrity is simply the notion that the person dreamt big and won.
These kinds of thoughts can be distracting when dining a Hollywood spot like this one. You can almost feel diners' heads lifting and falling with each new patron that enters in hopes of stealing a glimpse of an up and coming ingenue pretending to eat or—at the very least—a former cast member of That 70’s Show finishing off an evening of drinking and carousing with a some late night pancakes. Sorry gang—it's just Damon here for a burger (or two).
When AHT reader Rich Kaszeta tried to visit Ercole's in Manhattan Beach, California, this past Monday, he was unfortunately denied burger goodness—they don't serve burgers during Monday Night Football (they serve chili dogs).
Luckily, he managed to find another burger just a few blocks away at Ebizo's Skewer. Although you wouldn't expect to find good burgers at a shabu shabu joint, Rich explains, "Apparently, the idea was that they already bring in all sorts of good beef, and decided that it would be easy enough to grind some of it fresh to make burgers."
Rich praises the "Kobe" beef burger for its "pleasantly crisped exterior and a very moist interior"—a little too moist, he adds. He also recommends the Belgian fries, which are "tender and fluffy in the inside, and perfectly crisped on the outside without too much browning."
Ebizo's Skewer
229 Manhattan Beach Boulevard, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266 (map)
310-802-0765
Posted by Damon Gambuto, November 19, 2008 at 3:15 PM
The Tam O'Shanter Inn
2980 Los Feliz Boulevard, Los Angeles California 90039 (map); lawrysonline.com Cooking Method: Grillled Short Order: An old school eatery offers a twist on the classic burger Want Fries with That? Since they come with the burger, but not a special treat Notes: Lunch: Mon. to Fri., 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; Dinner:
Mon. to Thurs., 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m., Fri. and Sat., 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m., Sunday: 4:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Brunch: Sun., 10:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Mondays offer a discount wine
The name Tam O'Shanter was first made famous in the eighteenth-century by the Scottish poet Robert Burns. Burns, often referred to as the national poet of Scotland, plays a bigger role in your life than you probably realize. Once a year you (try to) sing along to his strange poem set to the music of a Scottish folk tune. It's about drinking to the good old days and forgetting your friends. Auld Lang Syne is Burns' legacy to most of the world, but in a little pocket of Los Angeles, the eponymous hero of Burns' greatest poem has bequeathed his name to an old-school restaurant and public house that has become an historic landmark.
The Tam O'Shanter Inn (or "The Tam") is on the east end of Los Feliz Boulevard in a neighborhood now called Atwater Village. The establishment is so rich with Los Angeles history, I barely know where to begin. Let's start at the start. In 1922 Lawrence L. Frank and Walter Van de Kamp decided to open up a bar and restaurant on a dusty strip on the Eastern outskirts of Los Angeles. Just a few years later, they'd turn to a Sottish theme and a menu of numerous hamburger steak options to save the ailing eatery. The current look and theme of "Scottish Inn" was born. At the time, the neighborhood was an almost-countryside landscape and the traditional-looking Anglo Inn seemed to fit right in. Today it sits across the street from a Costco and a Best Buy. Ah, progress.
Irene S. Virbilia’s review of the new Father’s Office location at Helms Bakery in Los Angeles is more a primer on how to navigate the complex rules and regulations for eating there than it is a true review. And, she doesn’t even like the burger:
I’m not the biggest fan of that burger. It’s more like a beef patty sandwich. The beef is nice and juicy, but the bun is more like a sandwich bun than a classic burger bun, and spongy to boot. I don’t like the sweetness (and sliminess) of the caramelized onions or the embellishment of the blue cheese. No lettuce, no mustard, too rich—and greasy. But I’m definitely in the minority. Fortunately, that’s not all there is to eat. With this second location, a real kitchen means Yoon has been able to expand the menu and get creative with the specials, scratching his itch to do something more than burgers.
Having never had it, I can’t really blab about whether she’s on or off here, but I would say that all that crap the place is piling on the burger doesn’t sound all that appealing.
Nick has had the thing and says that, while it’s delicious, it’s more a “haute cuisine sub sandwich” than a burger.
Posted by Nick Solares, November 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Cassell's
3266 W 6th Street, Los Angeles CA 90020; map); 213-480-8668 Cooking Method: Double broiled Short Order: Classic LA burger spot using a unique method of preparation. USDA Prime beef is ground daily in house and served on a world class bun. Want Fries with That? Yes, they are crispy and golden, but don't miss the horseradish potato salad either Price: Cheeseburger 1/3 pound, $6.75; 2/3 pounds, $7.95, Fries $1.95 Notes: Mon. to Sat., 10:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Cassell's has been serving USDA Prime burgers cooked with their unique double broiler system since 1948. The beef is ground fresh daily in a Hobart grinder that sits proudly in the front of the store, gleaming in the Southern California sunshine. It is just about the only thing that gleams within the weathered and worn confines of the nondescript single-story edifice tucked away on 6th Street in Korea Town. The daylight that floods in through Cassell's windows provides a stark contrast to the dull, spartan decor that doesn't look like it has changed much—save perhaps a layer or two of paint—since the 1940s. The yellowed walls, tarnished stainless steel, and tired signs are evocative of a school cafeteria. There is nothing romantic or charming about the room, unlike, for example, the Apple Pan and its impossibly idealistic preservation of its agrarian roots. Cassell's represents a grittier, urban, almost dystopian continuation of tradition.
Clicking in to the AHT inbox recently, we've got this bit of juicy intel. Eat up!
In the Los Angeles area, you need to know about Ercole's in Manhattan Beach. It is a nondescript dive bar, but inside they have some seriously good burgers. Ercole's has been around since 1927, and it is pretty much a neighborhood hangout. They get fresh ground meat from Manhattan Meat Market, which is next door to Ercole's. The burger is served in a wicker basket lined with paper. Very fresh, soft egg buns soak up the juice of the burger. The burgers are cooked just right—It certainly isn't a "well done" burger! The cheese is perfectly melted, and it is served with a very generous slice of red onion, slice of tomato, iceberg lettuce, and mustard. A nice long Kosher pickle spear and a bag of Lay's potato chips accompany the burger.
- Clay I.
Chowhound member ripken00 also recommends Ercole's, but warns that it's cash only and they "stop serving food at whatever hour they feel like, usually only serve food until happy hour times."
Posted by Damon Gambuto, November 5, 2008 at 3:00 PM
Carney's Restaurant
12601 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City CA 91604 (map); 818-761-8300; carneytrain.com Other location: 8351 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood CA 90069 (map); 323-654-8300 Cooking Method: Griddled or flame broiled Short Order: A Hollywood landmark misses the mark with its burgers and fries Want Fries with That? They'll cost you an extra $1.60 and I'd pass Price: Double cheeseburger w/o chili: $3.95; w/chili: $4.60; 1/2-pound cheeseburger: $5.10 Notes: Studio City: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
West Hollywood: Sun. to Thurs., 11 a.m to 12 a.m.; Fri. to Sat., 11 a.m. to 3 a.m.
It won’t be news to any of you that Los Angeles is a culture of cars. What isn’t always as obvious are the symptoms of the sickness attendant to seeing the world through your windshield. I can remember walking the streets when I first moved here and feeling as though none of the signage was designed for me. It wasn’t until I began navigating the sprawl in my aging Mitsubishi that I realized that a world passing by at forty miles per hour demands a visual language that is enlarged and elevated. The signs get bigger, taller, and more attention grabbing. You can find doughnut shops with twenty-foot representations of the fried treat adorning the roof. Fast food signs climbing forty feet into the air. You can even spot gigantic hands holding a car above Ventura Boulevard signaling the carwash below. To be fair, the last iteration went through a city ordinance battle that resulted in the loss of twenty feet of height (or a giant forearm).
It makes sense. Or should I say, there is perverse logic to it. Things go by too quickly from your car to simply rely on the normal business (sign) model. Customers need time to brake when they spot an oversized representation of their heart’s (or belly’s) desire. It’s this logic—and a Hollywood-sized love of spectacle—that has turned many restaurants in Los Angeles into replicas of something else. We’ve seen landmark eateries that were constructed to look like (brown derby) hats and diners shaped like bulldogs. While these examples, like so many of their kind, have become museum pieces, there is a restaurant that carries the torch of this tradition.
The Burger Train
Carney’s first opened its doors in 1968. John Wolfe Sr., a local radio executive, decided to build his burger joint from two aging Union Pacific rail cars. Carney’s quickly became a landmark on the Sunset Strip. The menu offers little more than the standard carhop, although burgers and dogs have been joined more recently by soft tacos. It’s easy to see why people were drawn to the place: The rail cars are truly beautiful and the effect of having them perched along a commercial strip is…well, spectacular. While I’ll come for the spectacle now and then, I am always more interested in staying for the food.
It's not as good as getting a free burger, but today until 9:30 p.m. organic burger joint O!Burger in West Hollywood, California, is offering free fries or cookies with the purchase of a burger to anyone with an "I Voted" sticker. 8593 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood CA 90069 (map); 310-854-0234
The beef is fresh-ground daily in their glass-enclosed butcher area up front, then shaped into 4, 6 and 8 ounce patties. My first thought was, "I'm going for the 8 ounce!" until I saw an 8 ounce go by, put my eyeballs back in their sockets, and switched to the 6'er, which turned out to be p—lenty big.
His only complaint was that they put mayonnaise on his burger. Highlights included the chocolate malted milkshake and the onion rings, which he described as the best he had ever eaten.
Posted by Damon Gambuto, October 29, 2008 at 2:00 PM
The Hungry Cat
1535 North Vine, Hollywood CA 90028 (b/n Selma Ave and W Sunset Blvd; map); 323-462-2155; thehungrycat.com The Short Order: A foursquare, seafood eatery defies the odds and its location to deliver a great burger Cooking method: Grilled Want Fries with That? Definitely. They come with the burger and they'll leave in your belly Price: The Pug Burger $16; add a fried egg for $2 Notes: Mon. to Sat., 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.; Sun., 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Over past few years Hollywood has been undergoing a gentrification of housing bubble proportions. From my living room window I can see a huge crane looming over the rapidly changing landscape below. For a while it was sort of exhilarating—new businesses opened at a fever pitch and created the most vibrant club and restaurant scene in Los Angeles. Of course, reality soon set in as real estate developers jumped at the opportunity like bankers to a government loan.
Big dreams and easy credit have begotten that most imaginative of development ideas: the mixed-use facility, where residences and businesses are built next to each other in a city. Imagine that. And so was born the bastard child of public urban renewal efforts and the private exurban aesthetic: the new Hollywood.
At the northwest corner of Sunset Boulevard and Vine Street can be found the current centerpiece of the Sunset & Vine Business Improvement District. It’s called—wait for it—Sunset + Vine. It’s about as creative as its name. Cookie-cutter condos sit atop standard issue chain businesses. Baja Fresh, check. Borders Books and Music, check. Smoothie King, Verizon Wireless, Bed, Bath & Beyond, and on and on.
Why would I be heading to this imitative space for an authentic burger? To visit The Hungry Cat, that’s why.
Posted by Nick Solares, October 28, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Father's Office
1018 Montana Avenue, Santa Monica, CA 90403 (b/n 10th Street and 11th Street; map); 310-393-2337; fathersoffice.com The Short Order: Fancy pants hamburger using premium ingredients that strays so far from the archetype that it is difficult for purists to even classify it as a hamburger Cooking method: Flame grilled Want Fries with That? Yes, they are very good, well worth the extra $2 Price: The Office Burger $12, with fries or sweet potato fries add $2 (prices include sales tax) Notes: Mon. - Thurs., 5:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.; Fri., 4:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.; Sat., 12:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.; Sun., 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m
21 and over only
It is a hot day in Los Angeles, at least compared to what is going on back home in New York where my friends tell me the weather is quite inclement. I have a plane to catch in a scant two and a half hours, yet I am heading in the opposite direction from both my hotel and the airport. I am on a mission to eat what has been widely lauded as the best burger in L.A.
I arrive a quarter hour before opening. The sun beats down mercilessly on me as I stand in the street waiting for the clock to strike 5 p.m. and the doors of Father's Office to open. I am not alone—huddled parties of twos and threes lurk by the entrance, their eyes expectantly darting in the direction of the shuttered door at the slightest stirring behind it. When it finally swings open—an agonizing two minutes later than expected—there is a passive-aggressive stampede as the disparate parties conglomerate in an effort to funnel through the entrance first without appearing rude or pushy.
We spill out into the long, narrow confines of a room that is ensconced, floorboard to ceiling, in blond wood paneling and rush for the bar to place our orders. I have a distinct advantage here: I may not have arrived first, but since I know what I want, there's no need to peruse the printed menu or the chalk boards. I hasten to order the Office burger. The fact that "no substitutions, modifications, alterations, or deletions" are permitted leaves only two question. "Fries?" Yes please. When queried on my drink preference I instinctively order the most familiar label amongst the seemingly endless number of beers on tap and request Old Speckled Hen, betraying my English upbringing.
Today is the 60th anniversary of the legendary In-N-Out Burger. As we posted about earlier this month, the rumors about a special price rollback today are false. Repeat: The In-N-Out rumors are a hoax! So don't be bum-rushin' the place for dinner tonight.
Posted by Damon Gambuto, October 22, 2008 at 3:45 PM
Editor's Note: Please welcome the newest member to the AHT family, Damon Gambuto! He'll report with a Los Angeles-area review every Wednesday. Learn more about him in his Grilled interview or read on for his first review.
Bill's Hamburgers
14742 Oxnard Street, Van Nuys CA 91411 (b/n Kester Ave and Cedros Ave; map);
818-785-4086 The Short Order: Two 2.7-ounce griddled patties stacked for maximum enjoyment Want Fries with That? They don't serve fries Price: double cheeseburger $4.45 Notes: Mon. - Fri., 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
When pondering which Los Angeles burger destination I would make the subject of this, my inaugural post, I took a moment to contemplate the vastness of the landscape of my adopted home.
The borders of this metropolis stretch to almost five hundred square miles. It is the only city in the U.S. that is bisected by a mountain range. There are over two hundred languages spoken here. Neighborhood hopping can feel like a transnational adventure. The car culture and traffic further fragment the population. If cities make you think of tall buildings, imagine being in one in which you can drive for miles and not see a structure over four stories tall. And drive we do.
Millions of us making our way past one another with nary a turn signal to acknowledge our shared space. It often feels like a bunch of small cities got together and decided to marry for the money. If we don’t keep our eyes trained on the road ahead, we’ll find that the life(style) we agreed to is a city that traffics in decisions that turn into accidents.
A City United by Hamburgers
Perhaps you’ve figured out what I am driving at. What unites this city full of people in cars? It’s where we stop, park, and eat. Together. We get out of our cars to do what humans have always done, usually together: eat. Eating here in Los Angeles is often all that gets us out of our cars and next to our neighbors. Privately owned restaurants are our public spaces. It’s how we get to know our city’s other residents. For this reason, eating is always more than an exercise in existing; it lurches into the existential. It’s a food experience.
Posted by Nick Solares, October 21, 2008 at 10:00 AM
The Original Pantry Cafe
877 South Figueroa Street, Los Angeles, CA (at W 9th Street; map); 213-972-9279; pantrycafe.com The Short Order: Eight-ounce griddle-cooked burger with great beef but on the wrong bread Want Fries with That? Comes with excellent, crispy, skin-on fries Price: The Pantry Burger $10.95
The Pantry is technically called The Original Pantry Cafe, but I refuse to call it that as I have yet to find another Pantry that is older than this one, which dates back to 1924.
Located in a rather dodgy part of downtown Los Angeles, The Pantry is the quintessential greasy spoon. Remarkably, it has never closed, remaining open every hour of every day since 1924. Even when they moved to their current location back in 1950 they stayed open by serving lunch at the old restaurant and dinner in the new one. There are no locks on The Pantry doors. My waitress told me that once during a blackout following an earthquake they continued to serve patrons by candle light—it was probably the closest any meal here came to being romantic.
Always Open and Never Changing
Being open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for over 80 years has its benefits and and its drawbacks. Certainly the restaurant's longevity is an indication that they must be doing something right, whether that is offering good value, good food, or a combination of both. A late night visit on a random weekday invariably finds the restaurant more than half full, and early on weekend mornings for brunch, a line forms down James M. Wood Boulevard.
But one of the downsides of never closing is that it becomes difficult to actually change either the decor or the menu much. The metal kitchen counters, which must have once gleamed with optimism, now bare only a dull sheen, betraying decades of wear and tear. So do the necessarily broad tables that line the dinning room—"necessarily broad" because the food portions at The Pantry are simply enormous, spilling off the plates and on to the tired, yellowing Formica. Even before you order your food, a loaf of bread so large that it could possibly feed the 5,000 is deposited on your table.
Posted by Jen Maiser, September 26, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Editor's Note: Jen Maiser is Serious Eats' San Francisco correspondent. While she usually brings us information about the latest offerings from local farmers' markets, she also has a penchant for eating burgers. Naturally. Here's her review of her favorite burger in San Francisco.
Photograph courtesy of Spruce
From the moment that Spruce opened a year ago, it has been packed with food-loving San Franciscans. The wait for a table can be weeks, and each night the Pacific Heights restaurant is full of tony masses who are shelling out top dollar for reportedly well-loved entrées and magnificent wines.
Frankly, I can't afford it.
But what I can afford is to sit at the bar and eat the best hamburger that I have ever eaten in San Francisco. Period.
The Spruce bar is a lovely, elegant place to eat dinner. Diners are given a choice of dishes from the main menu or the bar menu, the seats are comfortable, and the cocktails are terrific. My favorite cocktail right now is the East Side with Tanqueray No.10 Gin, cucumber, mint, and lime.
"The greening of American fast food starts here," says Anneli Rufus in her East Bay Expressfeature on Amanda's Feel Good Fresh Food, an environmentally and health conscious fast food eatery. Unlike other fast food places, the two-month old restaurant started by Amanda West in Berkeley, California, uses hormone-and-antibiotic-free meat and doesn't use trans fat or corn syrup. West describes her nutritionally-balanced offerings as "Whole Foods meets In-N-Out Burger."
Rufus says that the burgers "powerfully invoke the roadside-grill burgers of an earlier, earthier, pre-Whopper America" and despite the high quality ingredients, the prices remain reasonable—"$4.50 tops, as little as $6.75 with soda and fries." The only downside may be that the french fries are baked instead of deep-fried.
Amanda's Feel Good Fresh Food
2122 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley CA 94704 (map)
510-548-2122 amandas.com
The San Francisco Chronicle reports that Hubert Keller's mini build-your-own-burger chain Burger Bar will be opening its third location in the spring at the Union Square Macy's. The restaurant will be "7,000 square feet, with 80 to 90 seats in the dining room, plus a possible 60-seat private room." [via Eater SF]
Posted by Robyn Lee, September 15, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Clicking in to the AHT inbox recently, we've got this bit of juicy intel. Eat up!
This last weekend my wife and I went down to Coronado Island in San Diego. On the way we stopped in La Jolla for lunch. We ate at a place called Burger Lounge and it was terrific, although I think you would have criticized the bun to beef ratio. When we got to Coronado there was another Burger Lounge there. I had never heard of this chain of burger places—do you have any word on them?
I've never heard of this premium burger chain before, but it doesn't sound bad; they use "organic grass-fed Tallgrass Beef directly from the grower" and make "fresh cut French fries, house-made onion rings, and home-style-baked buns." Another plus is that eating at Burger Lounge may be less environment-killing than eating somewhere else because it's certified green.
Have any of you eaten at Burger Lounge? What did you think of it?
Posted by Nick Solares, September 9, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Although I live in New York City I spend quite a bit of time in Los Angeles, which gives me the chance to explore all that the City of Angels has to offer in the way of hamburgers. And that is an awful lot. As a friend who lives in L.A. stated, "NYC has pizza; we have burgers." Indeed, the proliferation of burger spots across the L.A. landscape is heartening for any lover of America's favorite sandwich. I have recently reported on the Apple Pan, Pie N Burger and Fred 62, so here is a quick roundup of some other burgers that I have tried in L.A.
In-N-Out Burger
There is surely no burger more synonymous with the Southern California style than the venerable and ubiquitous In-N-Out Burger chain. If I fly into Burbank, the Sunset Boulevard location is usually my first stop from the airport. While most people go for doubles, I prefer the simplicity of the single. I have also recently discovered Animal Style fries (topped with cheese, spread, and grilled onions), which make for an interesting diversion from the standard. If you have never eaten at In-N-Out, it should be your first stop in L.A.; if you have been there, it probably already is. 7009 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood CA 90028 (map; numerous other locations); 800-786-1000; in-n-out.com
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 7, 2008 at 4:00 PM
This great show is "A tasty, colorful tour of the Los Angeles burger and drive-in scene that also traces its Americana roots from post World War II through the 1990s."
At 47 minutes, it's quite a bit longer than most videos we highlight on this site, so we're running it here this weekend, when you've got plenty of time to watch it. Grab a burger, sink in, hit play, and enjoy! Take a tour of Burgertown after the jump. [via Philip]
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 2, 2008 at 2:00 PM
More L.A. burgerage for you. A Hamburger Today reader Mike Makis just dropped us an email: "Those that are not college football fans may have missed last night's segment on ESPN of the Apple Pan. Todd Blackledge covers a 'Taste of the Town' for every week's prime time college football game, and since last night's overtime showdown was at the Rose Bowl, he ended up at the Apple Pan."
Posted by Nick Solares, September 2, 2008 at 10:00 AM
If it's Tuesday, it must be time for another review from Nick Solares. Nick is also the publisher of Beef Aficionado, his blog that explores beef beyond burgerdom.
Pie 'N Burger
913 East California Boulevard, Pasadena CA 91106 (b/n South Lake Ave and South Mentor Ave; map); 626-795-1123; pienburger.com The Short Order:Classic So Cal-style griddle-cooked burgers replete with Thousand Island dressing. While there is nothing unique about the recipe, the execution is unmatched. It's the author's favorite example of the breed Want Fries with That? Absolutely—they're golden, crispy and delicious Price: hamburger $6.25; cheeseburger $6.75 Notes: Open Mon.-Fri., 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat., 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun., 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Last week I reported on the venerable Apple Pan restaurant and its justifiably hyped burger offerings. An equally compelling burger—albeit with far less star power (you probably won't see Jack Nicholson or any other celebrity dining here)&madsh;can be found in Pasadena at the decades-old Pie 'N Burger. I have to thank George Motz for featuring Pie 'N Burger in his book Hamburger America. I would have definitely made it to the Apple Pan irrespective of his book, as it is world famous, but a hidden gem like Pie 'N Burger would have likely slipped under the radar, overshadowed by L.A.'s more celebrated burger joints but for Motz's coverage. And what a shame that would have been, for Pie 'N Burger provided me with one of the seminal burger experiences of my life.
While the Apple Pan benefited from its proximity to the Hollywood movie studios and has served everyone from Clark Gable to Barbara Streisand, Pie 'N Burger has thrived on the back of a different constituency: local college students from USC and Caltech, as well as legions of those salt of the earth-type working people that you only hear about during primary elections.
Posted by Nick Solares, August 26, 2008 at 10:00 AM
If it's Tuesday, it must be time for another review from Nick Solares. Nick is also the publisher of Beef Aficionado, his blog that explores beef beyond burgerdom.
Apple Pan
10801 West Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles CA 90064 (map); 310-475-3585 The Short Order: Plump, succulent, and tender quarter pound burgers made with toasted, squishy buns are generously topped with lettuce, cheese, pickles, and mayonnaise. They're arguably the finest example of the California-style burger Want Fries with That? Crispy and delicious, they're worth getting Notes: Closed on Mondays. Tue.-Thu. and Sun., 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Back in 2005 Hamburger Hadley reported on the the venerable Apple Pan in West Los Angeles. It has since been featured in George Motz's Hamburger America—rumor has it that the idea for Motz's film and subsequent book originated at Apple Pan's counter over a burger. As the newest member of the AHT staff, I considered it a rite of passage to make Apple Pan a destination when I recently visited Los Angeles.
An Eatery That Takes You Back in Time
Nothing has changed since Hadley's visit—the Apple Pan remains exactly as he described. In fact, I doubt that much has changed at the Apple Pan since it opened back in 1947. At that time the Apple Pan was surrounded by the citrus groves and family farms that blanketed the undulating terrain of what was then rural West Los Angeles. A riding stable used to be located just across the street—a lady that I struck up conversation with at the counter remembers taking lessons there as a child and then heading over to the Apple Pan for burgers. She confirmed that absolutely nothing has changed at the simple ranch-style building in the ensuing years. On the other hand, almost everything else in the vicinity has transformed from rural to urban—the massive Westwood Pavilion Mall located across the street towers above the Apple Pan and rows of houses have replaced the rows of orchards.
The August 2008 issue of Orange Coast magazine lists their 10 favorite local gourmet burgers made with fancier, less common ingredients, such as Kobe beef, smoky chipotle aioli, or roasted-tomato marmalade. If you prefer something more classic (and less costly), they also list their six favorite local basic burgers.
Editor's note: Burgermeisters! I'm totally psyched about this. This is the first in a series of excerpts from George Motz's book Hamburger America. George and his publisher were kind enough to allow us to run them here, along with George's beautiful photos. We'll be running one every other week. Eat up! —The Mgmt.
The meat grinder is in the window. What more can I say? "It's there mostly for dramatic reasons, but it's there so the customer can see what they are getting," says Joe Obegi, owner for over forty years and the man responsible for some of the freshest burgers on the west coast. The grinder is only five feet from the huge flattop griddle.
Joe takes his burgers very seriously. Don't look for 1/2 pounders and other fractional designations here. Joe prefers to use what he calls "actual sizes," 4, 6, and 8 ounce "fresh ground beef steaks." The burgers are cooked medium-rare unless specified. The menu explains, "Order your beef steak the way you would like your steak cooked."
About halfway through my "beef steak," Joe made a strange but characteristically brazen move. He grabbed a fork and delicately pried loose a small portion of meat from the center of my burger. "Eat that, just like that with no bun or other stuff." My burger experience had been altered and I had seen the light — Joe's burgers really were ground steaks.
If it's Tuesday, it must be time for another review from Nick Solares. Nick is also the publisher of Beef Aficionado, his blog that explores beef beyond burgerdom.
Fred 62
1850 North Vermont Avenue, Los Angeles CA 90027 (at Russell Avenue; map); 323-667 0062; fred62.com The Short Order: The Jucy Lucy here is not modeled on the famous cheese-stuffed burger at Matt's Bar in Minneapolis but on the burgers at In-N-Out. The Jucy Lucy here, though, is like an In-N-Out burger on steroids. And tastes even better Want Fries with That? They come with, but if they didn't, you could skip them. They're not as crisp or flavorful as they need to be Price: $9.63 for the Jucy Lucy
Fred 62 is named after its owners, both named Fred, both born in, you guessed it, 1962. Back in 1997, designer Fred Sutherland and chef Fred Eric collaborated to create what they call a "retro-kitsch diner" in the burgeoning Los Feliz neighborhood of Los Angles. There is a distinct possibility that such ambitions can result in a trite, tiresome, and contrived restaurant that focuses too much on the kitsch and not enough on the food. Fortunately Fred 62 avoids most of the culinary pitfalls and turns out some inventive twists on classic diner fare.
The decor is an interesting mix of traditional diner trappings (a long counter divides the room, replete with classic soda fountains), along with a cheeky, low-brow slant (the servers all have racing stripes to match those of the leather booths that resemble cars seats). The building is painted in shades of green, orange, and yellow, giving it a rather gaudy and cartoonish look. Like I said, low-brow. Aesthetic misgivings aside, I was here to eat what the menu modestly bills, as "the worlds greatest hamburger sandwich."
I won't keep you in suspense. I don't think it is the world's greatest hamburger, but it is nonetheless very good—certainly one of the best burgers I have had in L.A. The burger in question is called the Jucy Lucy, but it is nothing like the one that has been reported on here at AHT extensively, which is actually filled with cheese before cooking. Fred 62's Jucy Lucy might not be filled with cheese, but it does at least live up to its name.
As part of McDonald's strategy to appeal to local tastes and aesthetics, a Mickey D's in Hacienda Heights, California, which has a large Asian community, has gone all feng shui. Elements include "leather seats, earth tones, bamboo plants, and water trickling down glass panels." Near the counter, eight rows of red tiles appear on the wall (eight is a lucky number, and red symbolizes "good luck, laughter, and prosperity"). [via Jason Perlow]
Editor's note: A short time ago, AHT reader "Junior Mintz" (aka "Frieswitdatshake") contacted me about contributing some San Diego–area burger intel to A Hamburger Today. "Sure thing!" I said. Here's the result. Enjoy! —Adam
Red Rooster: Givin' the people somethin' to crow about.
I've found some good spots for chewing the cow down here in the San Diego area. One of these is the Red Rooster in Oceanside, California. It's a little roadside dive bar in an area of older strip malls near a California Highway Patrol station, just off the wrong side of the 5 freeway.
I work down the street and heard they had a damn fine burger. Smallish grill in the corner behind the bar with a deep fryer next to it. I dunno if they're half- or third-pound patties, but they're big. They flame grill 'em and grill Ortega chiles right there too. Ortegas don't have any heat to them at all, they just add a terrific flavor to balance the cheese, onions, and all that meaty goodness.
OTHER BLOGGERS, OTHER BURGERS Texas Burger Guyvisits Wallbanger's in Corpus Christi, a Fuddrucker-esque build-your-own burger joint. Gives it a 6 out of 10 overall. 4100 South Staples Street, Corpus Christi TX 78411; 361-855-8007
The Chicago Burger Project, which is gunning to try all 55 of Time Out Chicago's Top 55 burgers, visits Susie's Drive Thru. The Western Burger there is "unremarkable." 4126 West Montrose Avenue, Chicago IL 60641; 773-283-6544
Blogger Matt Bites on Chimichurri, the Dominican hamburger: "In the simplest of terms chimichurri is a Dominican hamburger. But a burger of the highest, messiest order and one that left me swooning and pining and all those other hyperbolic terms we love to use. Imagine a soft bun, a patty, grilled tomatoes and onions, cabbage (sometimes quickly pickled) and dollops of mayonnaise and ketchup. It's messy, greasy, and one of the tastiest things to pass my lips in such a long time."
Chicagoist hits up Top Notch Beefburger on the Windy City's South Side: "The burgers here, hand formed from fresh beef ground daily, take you back to a time when GIs walked the streets with pockets full of money, ready to cut themselves a slice of good time. Which makes sense, since the place dates all the way back to 1942. After sixty-five years, you'd think they could do this in their sleep." 2116 West 95th Street 60643; 773-445-7218
OPENINGS La Jolla, California — Burger Lounge: New burger joint serves grass-fed, free-range burgers: "And then there's the special taste of grass-fed beef. My hamburger was remarkably juicy with an honest, meaty flavor. It reminded me of the skillet burgers my dad made when I was a kid." 1101 Wall Street, La Jolla CA 92037; 858-456-0196
Roanoke, Virginia — Phantastic Burger: The family opening it is named Phan. Get it? Phantastic Burger? It'll be open in the food court of Valley View Mall in September. 4802 Valley View Boulevard Northwest, Roanoke VA 24012, in the food court
MILWAUKEE LOVES SLIDERS The Journal Sentinel checks in with a great survey of tiny hamburgers in the Milwaukee area. On the list: Firefly Urban Bar & Grill, 7754 West Harwood Avenue, Wauwatosa WI 53213; Buckley's Kiskeam Inn, 801 North Cass Street, Milwaukee WI 53202; Mikey's, 811 East Jefferson Street, Milwaukee WI 53202; Café Hollander, 2608 North Downer Avenue, Milwaukee WI 53211; Cans Bar and Canteen, 1185 East Kenilworth Avenue, Milwaukee WI 53202; Hooligan's Super Bar, 2017 East North Avenue, Milwaukee WI 53202
BRITISH MEAL The Times of London finds "the best burger in New York" at The Burger Joint at Le Parker Meridien. 118 West 57th Street, New York NY 10019; 212-245-5000
Ever since Bar Marmont in L.A. changed management, and changed its burger from the Best in the World to just plain old delicious, I've been searching the streets of Hollywood for the next perfect burger. Pretty close is the Kobe Burger at Dusty's on Sunset in Silverlake. I recommend it rare and without the condiments provided on the side.
Amazing!
—Dino
Thanks for the tip, Dino. Good LA intel is always appreciated!
As editor of AHT, I'm ashamed to say I've never been to the Apple Pan, but I've read and heard plenty about the place. Over at Serious Eats, we even have a nice video about general manager Charles Collins and his own 50th anniversary of service there. But today's story in the L.A. Times brings some new, quirky info (at least to me):
It's well-known that you can't get tomato on your burger, but "regulars know you can request an onion slice or even fried onions, when the grill isn't too busy."
The Apple Pan has remained stubbornly old-school in terms of food prep and service: "Soft drinks are still poured in paper cones supported by stainless steel cupholders, in the 1940s lunch-counter way. Over time those bases began to disappear, and about a year ago it looked as if the restaurant would finally have to start using cardboard or plastic cups. 'But then a customer found a bunch of bases for us on EBay,' [owner Martha] Gamble says."
It's a loving portrait of a type of place that is sadly becoming all too rare these days. One that treats its customers and employees with respect (the "newest" kitchen member has been there 17 years) and doesn't try to meddle with a good thing or expand or chain itself out, thereby losing quality.
The Apple Pan, an institution of a burger joint in Los Angeles (covered here on AHT), opened in 1947. For 50 of its 60 years in business, Charles Collins has worked there. Burger documentarian George "Hamburger America" Motz catches up with Mr. Collins as he marks his golden anniversary there.
THE APPLE PAN Location:10801 West Pico Blvd. (at Westwood Blvd.), Los Angeles 90064 Phone: 310-475-3585 Price: $5.75 Short Order: Two classic burgers dating to the '40s still amaze tastebuds with individuality and kick-ass quality in old-school diner digs.
About the filmmaker: George Motz is the burger-mad genius behind our favorite burger movie, Hamburger America. For more from George, visit his website, HamburgerAmerica.com
Posted by Adam Kuban, February 27, 2007 at 2:16 PM
Oh, the stars. They too love the burgers. Who'd have thought "the Queen" (Helen Mirren) was up for a bit of the ol' In-N-Out? In what seems to be a Hollywood tradition, a stand providing the famous California treat was set up at the back of the Vanity Fair Oscar party.
Posted by Adam Kuban, December 18, 2006 at 11:55 AM
After a brief hiatus, ladies and gentlemen, Grilled is back. This week's installment is Peter Meehan, who has discovered and relayed the news of some of New York's finest burgers in the pages of the New York Times. Because he wishes to retain his anonymity for the purposes of his reviews, we do not have a photograph—apologies to those of you who enjoy rating the relative hotness of each new Grilled subject as compared with my sister. Without further ado, let's get Grillin'! —The Mgmt.
Name: Peter Meehan Occupation: "$25 and Under" columnist for the New York Times Location: New York City
How often do you eat burgers?
Once or twice a week at most. Back before I was reviewing restaurants, I probably ate three or four burgers a week.
Where did you eat your most recent one?
BLT Burger. I’ve taken a short burger break after bingeing at BLT.
Cheese: American, cheddar, other?
American, I guess. Seems like the patriotic answer. But I am open to almost any melty cheese on a burger. I have more specific feelings about what cheese choices I object to: I love blue cheese and mozzarella, but I don’t think either belongs on a hamburger; and I don’t like burgers blanketed in any outré or overly pedigreed cheese.
Ketchup or mustard?
Mustard on the burger, ketchup on the side. I think a truly great burger needs no ketchup. (But I have a very strong affinity for ketchup, so there’s a good chance I’m still going to eat at least part of that truly great burger with it.)
Sesame-seed or plain?
That’s tough. Sesame-seed buns do seem like the platonic ideal of hamburger bun-ness. But there are many seedless buns on burgers I like. Seedless potato rolls are perfect for the Shake Shack burger. The choice of ciabatta for the smaller burger at DuMont burger is inspired. The English muffin as a burger bracket has always struck me as a pointless East Coast affectation, but it serves Gabrielle Hamilton’s lamburger [at Prune] well. Before eating at Royale, I would have said “absolutely no brioche” because every hamburger I’d eaten on a brioche bun up to that point was way too rich. Not theirs. Plus it had sesame seeds. So I’m waffling, but ultimately going sesame. Final answer.
Grilled, griddled, or broiled?
All of the above. Didn’t George Motz teach us that burgers can be steamed and deep-fried, too? Is there even a verb for what they do to the burgers at Louis’ Lunch in New Haven? I find grilling and broiling to be the surest approaches to properly cooked patties, but I have no allegiance to any one style.
And how would you like that done, sir?
Medium-rare. Bonus points if the thing gets a chance to rest for a few minutes before it’s served, though I can’t think of a single restaurant where that happens.
Posted by Adam Kuban, November 6, 2006 at 12:27 PM
Ladies and gentlemen, last week we introduced you to AHT's Matty Jacobs. This week, it's time you got to know "Hamburglar" Hadley Tomicki a little better. Without further ado, let's get Grillin' —Ed.
Name: Hadley "Hamburglar" Tomicki Location: Los Angeles Occupation: Editor lataco.com, educator, and actor
How often do you eat burgers?
Less and less it seems these days after opening up to the taco lifestyle, maybe once or twice a month.
Where did you eat your most recent one?
Fatburger on a very classy date, unless you count the Runza I had in Nebraska the other week.
American, cheddar, other?
I like Gruyère, cheddar, even blue cheese. Typically sharp cheeses for me on my burger.
Ketchup or mustard?
Both. But if George W. Bush instituted a draconian one-condiment doctrine, I'd choose the ketchup.
Sesame-seed or plain?
Sesame, please.
Grilled, griddled, or broiled?
Grilled—with lots of char marks.
And how would you like that done, sir?
Medium, possibly medium-rare, if you’ve got a good rep.
Posted by Adam Kuban, October 13, 2006 at 11:10 AM
Daisy Martinez, host of the public television cooking show Daisy Cooks, recently served as a judge for the Sutter Home Build a Better Burger contest. If you want the lowdown on judging such a contest, click over to her site. A clip:
We each were served half of 10 burgers, and those burgers were separated into 2 classes: Alternative and Beef. The winner of the Alternative category would win $10,000 and the winner of the Beef category would win $50,000. As luck would have it, I was so busy tasting burgers that I didn’t photograph them, but the winner of the alternative burger was Elizabeth Bennett and her Opa! Burger, which featured flavors of the Mediterranean (lamb, feta, oregano, and the secret ingredient: 2 slices of soppresata!), and the winner of the beef burger was Camilla Saulsbury and her Born in Berkeley Burgers (showcasing lemon-grilled fennel and arugula-fig topping, teleme cheese, and crispy bacon). Not too shabby!
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 7, 2006 at 3:20 PM
A little bitta the ol' In-N-Out for you, Paris? ...
Celebrity Paris Hilton was arrested in Hollywood early on Thursday for suspected drunk driving, but she said the incident had been blown out of proportion and that she may have been speeding to get a late-night burger....
"I had one margarita (and) was starving because I had not eaten all day," she said. "Maybe I was speeding a little bit and I got pulled over. I was just really hungry and I wanted to have an In-N-Out Burger."
Shouldn't she have been speeding to get a Carl's Jr.? ...
Posted by Adam Kuban, September 6, 2006 at 8:30 AM
From an op-ed piece in the Los Angeles Times:
The great taste hasn't changed, but the mystique that inspired our carnivorous cross-valley quests sure has. The earlier, spartan drive-throughs, which once kept us at arm's length, a sheet of glass sealing off the inner sanctum where clean-cut workers frenetically packed the grill with meat patties, has given way to brightly lighted indoor seating no different from the national fast-food chains. The fabled secret menu, for years passed around solely by word of mouth, giving those of us in the know an easy way to separate the true In-N-Out fan — and true Southern Californian — from the wannabes … well, the Web ended all that.
How can we preserve that vanishing sense of wonder while giving proper respect to the important role In-N-Out has played in postwar SoCal culture? An idea came to me a few months back while driving on the 10 Freeway, when I glimpsed a well-worn yellow-arrow sign, bearing a quaint pre-digital clock....
[In-N-Out No. 1] has been closed and gated off since 2004, replaced by a much snazzier restaurant just on the other side of the freeway at the same Francisquito Avenue exit. Next door stands the two-story "In-N-Out University" managerial training center and company store, selling such items as ski caps and beach towels emblazoned with the chain's name.
Company honchos have told the San Gabriel Valley Tribune that they plan to preserve the building, and there was even talk of a museum, but I envision something more — a full-blown In-N-Out shrine.
Went to Joe's Best Burger in Flushing, Queens, NYC, a couple weeks ago to compare its double cheeseburger to In-N-Out's Double Double. New York City-based Joe's has been compared favorably to the California-based chain, with people saying it comes pretty close to the INO formula. Both taste great and are as fresh as you can get for fast-food burgers. But In-N-Out is a little meatier, as seen above. You can get a better idea of the differences and similarities here: Joe's Best Burger Double Cheeseburger In-N-Out Double Double
It's not as good as getting a free burger, but today until 9:30 p.m. organic burger joint 
Being open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for over 80 years has its benefits and and its drawbacks. Certainly the restaurant's longevity is an indication that they must be doing something right, whether that is offering good value, good food, or a combination of both. A late night visit on a random weekday invariably finds the restaurant more than half full, and early on weekend mornings for brunch, a line forms down James M. Wood Boulevard. 
Daisy Martinez, host of the public television cooking show Daisy Cooks, recently served as a judge for the Sutter Home 